Australia's Premier Ethical Bespoke Jewellery Company
Melinda, a jewellery designer and qualified gemmologist, is the founder and driving force behind Ethical Jewellery Australia (EJA) and The Promised Ring.
After several years of designing and selling her own range of jewellery, Melinda created EJA when she realised that no one in the bespoke jewellery industry in Australia offered an environmentally and socially-friendly product. In other words, consumers had never had the opportunity to purchase locally made, high end jewellery that incorporated traceable and fair trade Diamonds and coloured gemstones and responsibly recycled p
It all began when Melinda learned of Oxfam’s ‘no dirty gold’ campaign. She signed the ‘no dirty gold’ pledge in early 2007 and Ethical Jewellery Australia was born.
Her resolve to provide an environmentally and most importantly, socially responsible alternative strengthened even further when, through her Gemmology studies, she began to realise that the cost of mining and processing gemstones can be very high on workers and environment.
Melinda discovered that it is possible to make socially responsible buying decisions in the Diamond and Gemstone industry — even though no one had previously demanded it. It is possible to insist that there is no child labour used, that all workers experience fair working conditions, that they have the right to not be exposed to toxic chemicals and that communities should directly benefit from the sale of their natural resources.
Eventually a handful of suppliers were found who could meet her company’s stringent criteria.
At this time Melinda was also a co-owner of a retail and manufacturing jewellery business in Brisbane. Through her unique experiences in dealing with customers in the engagement ring market, the idea for ‘The Promised Ring’ emerged.
Many of her customers were men looking for engagement rings or special gifts but didn’t know what they should buy and were really concerned about getting something their partner wouldn’t love.
She also met a lot of women whose partners had bought them something they didn’t like that much — either wanted to have the piece of jewellery remodelled or to buy something ‘better’.
Almost by accident, Melinda suggested to one of her customers that he simply buy some gold and Diamonds (or platinum, as was his ultimate choice) and present that to his partner, then come back with her to work out the design and have the ring made.
He loved the idea, and so did his partner …
Another customer, looking for a meaningful birth gift for her new granddaughter, was delighted with the idea of presenting her with her birthstone …
Then there was the anniversary present for another customer’s wife … and so, The Promised Ring was born.
With ever growing public interest in environmentally and socially responsible alternatives, Melinda made the decision to sell her interest in the retail jewellery shop and, with her partner, Benn Harvey-Walker, created Ethical Jewellery Australia and The Promised Ring. The result is a hands on business, based on an entirely different model – primarily internet based, but customer focused and very personal.
As a qualified gemmologist, jewellery designer and experienced businesswoman, Melinda manages all the Gemstone, Diamond and design related tasks in the business. She sources stones to customers exact requirements and ensures that the design is perfect before manufacturing commences. Melinda constantly liaises with the jewellers and customers throughout the design and manufacturing process. Top quality jewellery and customer satisfaction is her highest priority.
Melinda is a member of GAA (Gemmological Association of Australia), Fair Jewelry Action and the Jeweltree Foundation.
We are very fortunate to have three highly talented Brisbane jewellers helping to create our top quality products. Currently our pieces are hand made by either Ferdinand, Phillip or Ann.
Phillip is also a qualified Gemmologist (who is currently studying to become a Geologist!) and works closely with Melinda to fine tune the design of the finished product. Phillip is a multi talented jeweller and setter, who can make just about anything you can imagine. Ferdinand is an experienced setter and a superb jeweller who makes both classic and more intricate pieces. Phillip and Ferdinand are supported by Ann, a final year apprentice who won the JAA apprentice of the year in 2010.
Both Phillip and Ferdinand are very experienced with manufacturing pieces made from Platinum and Palladium. With these highly skilled jewellers on board, we are able to tackle any manufacturing job that you may desire.
Benn is the co-founder of Ethical Jewellery Australia. He spent 17 years as a marketing and management consultant before moving into building construction. He is also interested in design and photography. Benn worked closely with the web designer to build the original website as well as creating the 3D and other imaging. Benn is Melinda’s ‘rock’ and works closely with her on business development.
As we all know, “the internet is made of cats” – so here are ours:
Brothers Atticus and Boo were adopted from the Paddington Cat Clinic in December 2010. They quickly put Phoebe the dog in her place.
We give two guarantees — delight and quality.
Our Delight Guarantee is simple.
If you and your partner are not absolutely delighted with the quality of your purchase from Ethical Jewellery Australia Pty Ltd we will refund, replace or remodel the item as appropriate. (We do reserve the right to test any Diamonds and Gemstones for substitution. This can take several days — and it’s at our cost.)
If your ring in not the right size, we will resize at no charge.
When it comes to quality, we only deal with reputable Diamond and Gemstone wholesalers.
All of our gold (white and yellow), silver, palladium and platinum is hallmarked – guaranteeing its purity. By the way, the metal we buy is 100% recycled by environmentally responsible refiners. We have a strong emphasis on environmental issues and choosing responsibly recycled precious metals helps to reduce the impact of mining on the environment.
Recycled does not mean second best however, recycled metal is as pure and useable as any newly mined metal that has been processed for jewellery use. In a similar vein, all our Diamonds and Gemstones come from non-conflict areas and most of them are of a traceable origin. All traceable diamonds come with documents supporting their origin.
The good news is — when it comes to handmade and hand-finished jewellery (as opposed to mass produced items) — having your jewellery made from ethically produced materials costs you nothing extra, yet does that little bit more to help the planet.
In the case of ‘The Promised Ring’, all of the supplied raw materials meet our strict ethical standards.
When it comes to the jewellery industry, there are morally and legally imposed standards with regard to things like metal quality, disclosure of gemstone types, synthetics and the like – at least in first world countries. But when it comes to ‘ethics’ from an environmental and social stance, there really are no standards. And to say whether it’s right or wrong to use mined gold or gemstones from Burma (or other political hotspots) is a big call — best left to individual choice.
At EJA our stance is that ‘ethical’, in the context of jewellery, means, “does minimal harm (to the environment and to people)”. Our objective is to educate our customers so they know the right questions to ask and can make a choice.
The gold needed to make one ring is acquired by the displacement of around 20 tonnes of earth; this is then extracted using toxic chemicals. The jewellery industry uses 85% of all newly mined gold.
However, there is a stockpile in the form of old and broken jewellery, jewellers’ scraps, obsolete computer and mobile phone hardware etc. that could serve our needs for the next 50 years or so.
Because of this, we feel that the jewellery industry has a responsibility to utilise these existing resources and to do so in such a way that does not further damage the environment. Along with many leading retailers overseas, we have signed Oxfam’s ‘no dirty gold’ pledge and are actively involved with groups pushing for a more ethical jewellery industry.
Mining is a dirty business in anyone’s language, but Gold & silver mining is particularly so. Gold & silver is mined using processes that are very damaging to the environment.
Cyanide and heavy metal (especially mercury) poisoning of mine sites is a by-product of conventional leach mining practises and damage to the local ecology is common place thanks to workplace accidents — some of the most notorious incidents include the Baia Mare spill in northern Romania in 2000 that polluted the Danube and Tsiza rivers, Placer Dome’s Misima mine in Papua New Guinea that, in 2004, spilled cyanide into the ocean killing local marine life and the Kalgoorlie Gold Mine spillage into local groundwater in 2004.
To economically extract ever-decreasing supplies of raw Gold & silver, mining companies use a process called leach mining. This basically involves saturating ground-up rock with cyanide.
Heavy metals, like Gold & silver, attach to the cyanide solution and can later be separated using electrolysis-like processes.
And whilst most responsible mining companies go to considerable efforts to prevent environmental damage, inevitably accidents happen. Sadly there is a very long list of accidents relating to cyanide spillages, failures of tailings dams and other industrial accidents.
Importantly, cyanide is only part of the problem. Industry supporters will quickly point out that cyanide biodegrades very quickly, but it’s the other heavy metals (like lead and mercury) trapped in the tailings and slurries that cause lasting damage. Add that to the fact that a lot of the world’s remaining Gold & silver deposits are located in ecologically sensitive areas and you have a recipe for disaster.
It also seems that economic status and legislative controls make little difference to where the damage happens. Serious accidents have been reported in several locations in Australia, New Zealand, the United States, Romania, Hungary, China, Ghana, The Republic of Congo, Papua New Guinea and many others.
The problem is so significant that Oxfam America and EARTHWORKS launched their No Dirty Gold campaign in 2004 — its purpose being to educate retailers and the general public about the true social and environmental cost of gold.
The movement is gaining momentum in the US and the UK. At last report, 23 major jewellery retailers — including Tiffanys & Co., Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Wal-mart — have signed the campaign’s ‘Golden Rules’. (This group of 23 retailers represent 22%, or $12 billion in retail jewellery sales in America alone.)
Yet in Australia, the concept of ‘dirty gold’ is almost unheard of — and it seems even on a global scale, ‘dirty silver’ doesn’t even rate a mention (even though it’s produced using essentially the same cyanide leaching process used in gold mining).
Most platinum comes from South Africa, the United States, Russia, South America and Canada, with South Africa and Russia producing some 60% of the total. (It’s estimated that 90% of the world’s remaining supplies are in South Africa.)
Like Gold & silver, platinum is a dwindling resource — and is even more difficult to recover (hence its higher price). It’s actually more plentiful in the Earth’s crust than the other two precious metals, but production volumes are only around 10% of those of Gold & around 1% of silver volumes.
There are three factors that make platinum hard to recover:
On the socio-political side, South Africa is the main ‘hot bed’.
Some publications report widespread dislocation and oppression of local populations, including imprisonment of dissident leaders, violent quelling of protests, destruction of crops and intentional polluting of community water supplies.
On the other hand, other publications (like The Times) report a beneficial local economic boom — job creation, infrastructure development, real estate value increases and the like.
Either way, unlike Gold & silver, platinum has significant uses outside of jewellery (it’s an irreplaceable component in car exhaust systems for example) — so the jewellery industry is not the major production driver.
When it comes to ‘dirty’ Gold & silver, unfortunately there is almost no public awareness of the issue in Australia. Even inside the industry, very few jewellers are aware of the damage conventional mining of Gold & silver does to the environment.
Ethical Jewellery Australia Pty Ltd grew from the desire to do something about changing the status quo. As EJA’s position is to reduce the impact the jewellery industry has on the environment and its people, we only use recycled Gold & platinum. We source all of our metal from responsible recyclers, as we don’t want to obtain ethical metals at the expense of environmentally destructive recycling methods.
When it comes to gemstones, nowadays most people are familiar with the concept of “blood diamonds”, but the problems of exploitation, cartels and unsafe work practises are not limited to the diamond industry alone.
Our policy is simple – no exploited labour so that means no children, no sweatshops, no sub standard cutting factories.
We can’t do much about the fact that diamonds come from big holes in the ground, but we can ensure that no one is harmed by their removal or processing.
Quite apart from the corruption and unethical practises rife in the international gem trade, several of the processes used to enhance the value of stones are also very damaging to the health of the people operating those processes — particularly in third-world countries.
Irradiation of gems carries a significant health risk to operators and treatment with beryllium (a carcinogen) is equally as dangerous.
Gladly there is growing awareness about the negative issues associated with the diamond and gem trade and more and more consumers and jewellers are actively preferring non-conflict stones (though far fewer people are aware of the issues associated with irradiation and beryllium treatment).
The issues surrounding the production of diamonds, gemstones and organics are every bit as complex as those associated with precious metal production.
In the diamond trade, most of us are at least somewhat aware of the issues relating to human rights abuses and cartels — whether that be in a country torn by civil war or one where the population is oppressed by corrupt and exploitative governments and powerful enterprises.
When it comes to gemstones, there are literally dozens of types of precious stones in common use sourced from around the world.
Like the diamond trade, gems are every bit as subject to exploitation and corruption, though the incidence of fraud (through production of synthetics and treatment of stones) is more prevalent.
At EJA our policy is to only use gems from suppliers where we can verify the source. Likewise we avoid treated stones.
Importantly, our ‘genuine article’ and no-conflict stance doesn’t mean we don’t support third-world countries where the governments and/or mining companies aren’t serious about supporting and developing local mining communities.
Organics are things like pearls, amber, coral, ivory, wood, tortoise shell, bone and the like.
Flat out we don’t support the manufacture of jewellery from any non-renewable organics — especially from animals (which includes coral).
In our opinion, it’s just plain unnecessary when there are so many other beautiful materials to work with. Pearls are interesting in that producers, through necessity, need to look after their local environments. If the surrounding water (salt or fresh) is polluted in any way, oysters don’t thrive, so it’s in the producer’s best interests to keep the environment clean. (By way of example, the Japanese pearl industry — once a world leader — now no longer exists thanks to pollution of waterways.)